In some cases, it is not possible to use a table saw, for example, because you have to work in another place than your workshop.
For others, buying a table saw is a problem.
Either their workshop is too small to place a big table saw or buying an expensive table saw does not fit their budget.
When you recognize one of these situations, then a solution must be found to be able to do the same work.
That solution is this circular saw crosscut jig.
I made this crosscut jig as a prototype to see what improvements are possible. Immediately after finishing and testing, I noticed a few things.
In this blog, I will guide you to make this crosscut jig yourself and point out the mistakes I made when building so that you can make the perfect circular saw crosscut jig.
You can also download plans for free in this blog.
The plans have changed after my jig was built, so you can get started right away.
However, when you build this crosscut jig, don’t forget to adjust the dimensions to suit your circular saw.
Before we start building
To prepare you for building this project, I have made a few handy lists.
In addition to a few personal protective equipment that I use*, I also list the materials as well as the (power) tools you will need to build this jig.
* Safety is always your own responsibility!
Materials I used for this Crosscut jig
(power)Tools I used for this woodworking jig
- Makita MLT100 table saw Watch my Unboxing video and my review video if you want to see more about this tool.
- Makita 3709 router
- Makita AF505N Brad nailer. Watch my Unboxing video if you want to know more about this tool.
- Brad nails 25mm
- Brad nails 50mm
- Air compressor
- Drill press
- Hilti cordless drill SF144-A
- Festool sander
- Circular saw
- Kreg KMA multi mark and measuring tool
- Pica pencil to mark all the pieces.
Building the crosscut jig step by step
Now that we have gone through the list of what we all need for this project, I will explain step by step how to make this circular saw crosscut jig.
Step 1 | Preparation
At the start of this project, you can cut all parts using the free plans you can find in this blog.
To cut the parts for this crosscut jig, I used my table saw and crosscut sled for this but you could just as well use a handsaw, jigsaw or your circular saw for this.
Be sure to watch my video how I made my crosscut sled: The perfect crosscut sled? Accurate | removable zero clearance insert.
I hope to be able to make some free plans of the crosscut sled in a few weeks and make a blog about it, so keep an eye on my website or subscribe to the newsletter to be the first to know when I upload a new blog.
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Step 2 | Assembling the crosscut jig
To cut both 90-degree and 45-degree angles with the crosscut jig, it has an adjustable fence.
In order to be able to fix the fence in the desired position, a slot is milled in the form of an arc into the bottom plate.
To make that arch, a hole was drilled through the bottom plate that will later serve as a pivot point for the fence.
To make the slot itself, I used my router circle jig which I placed into the drilled hole.
When you mill the slot, do this in several passes. Once you have a slot you can make a wider slot in the back in which your bolt will fit.
This router circle making jig is very easy to make. Be sure to check out my blog if you want to build this jig yourself.
Once the slot was milled, all the parts could be mounted on the bottom plate.
I started with mounting the two fences.
Be sure to watch my video to see where I made a mistake here as well as when drilling the center point of the adjustable fence.
If you follow the dimensions of the free plans, however, you no longer have to take this into account, the dimensions have already been adjusted.
To connect the parts of the jig together I used wood glue and brad nails.
If you consider buying a nail gun, be sure to watch my blog How to choose the right nail gun for your projects. A complete nail gun guide.
I have used my nail gun for almost every project since I bought it, so I can highly recommend buying one.
After assembling the base I was able to place the two metal pipes for the circular saw to slide on. I attached these to the crosscut jig with screws.
At the front of the jig, the screw may protrude above the metal, the circular saw must not slide over it and the head of the screw also serves as a kind of stop block.
However, the screw on the back must be countersunk, otherwise, it will block the passage of the circular saw when cutting.
Therefore, a hole is drilled in the top of the metal tube that is larger than the head of the screw, so that the head of the screw is recessed into the metal tube.
To prevent the circular saw from swinging left or right when u use this crosscut jig, a wooden board was attached along the metal and protruded about 5 mm above the metal.
Because the wood would not bend sideways when pressure was placed on the circular saw while cutting, the wood was glued to the metal tube with epoxy glue.
Where these boards touch the wood at the base of the jig, wood glue and brad nails were used to make a sturdy connection.
Don’t just use any wood glue for your projects!
To find out which different types exist and for which applications they serve, check out my blog Understanding Wood Glue + 8 awesome tricks you should know. Here you will discover everything you need to know about wood glue.
I made the button that clamped the adjustable fence on the crosscut jig myself with my star knob jig on my drill press.
If you want to make this jig too, you can download the free plans in my blog, discover the 5 best woodworking jigs I made in the past year.
Step 3 | Setting the crosscut jig
When the jig is ready, make a shallow cut in the bottom plate with the circular saw.
Based on this cut, you can mark a 90-degree angle and a 45-degree angle on the bottom plate with a square.
I marked these two most used corners with a pencil.
If you use other angles, you can mark them in the same way.
Learn from my mistakes
After building and testing this crosscut jig, it turned out that there were minor flaws that I hadn’t noticed while designing.
The pivot point of the adjustable fence was a little too close to the rear fence.
The adjustable fence could move easily as planned, but what didn’t work was to push longer planks through it.
When I tried this, the board hit the fence at the back.
This problem can be solved by sliding the adjustable fence forward.
Another problem was also when cutting at a 45-degree angle.
This time a similar problem with the front fence.
By shortening this, the problem is also quickly resolved here.
The free plans you can download here have been tweaked so you can create the perfect crosscut jig.
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Woodworking | DIY | Home decoration
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