In my previous blog, genius tenon jig like no other, you could already see how I made the bottom plate for this tenon jig.
In this second blog, I finish the tenon jig and demonstrate how you can make perfect tenons time and time again in a super-fast way.
Here we go.
Go to part 1 to see the beginning of the build and to download the first part of the free plans by clicking the button below.
After that, you can come back here to download Part 2 of the plans and finish the jig.
Before we start building
To prepare you for building this project, I have made a few handy lists.
In addition to a few personal protective equipment that I use*, I also list the materials as well as the (power) tools you will need to build this jig.
* Safety is always your own responsibility!
Safety first! Protect yourself!
Materials I used for this Corner clamp
(power)Tools I used for this Corner clamp
- Makita MLT100 table saw Watch my Unboxing video and my review video if you want to see more about this tool.
- Makita 3709 router
- Makita AF505N Brad nailer. Watch my Unboxing video if you want to know more about this tool.
- Brad nails 25mm
- Air compressor
- Drill press
- Hilti cordless drill SF144-A
- Kreg KMA multi mark and measuring tool
- Pica pencil to mark all the pieces.
Building this tenon jig step by step
Step 1 | Preparation
Start by cutting all necessary pieces to size. Use the dimensions on the free plans that you can download in this blog.
Step 2 | Making the vertical plate
A hole must be drilled in the middle of this plate to serve as a central hinge point for the adjustable fence.
Mark this point, just like the other holes to be drilled, and make the holes. Preferably use a drill press so that the holes are drilled perfectly square.
You can now also mark the slot in which the t-track will be attached.
You can make the slot by sliding the plate over the table saw in several steps. Set the depth of the saw blade equal to the height of the T-track.
By drilling the hole in the center I could use my router circle maker jig to round the top of the plate.
This round top will later serve to quickly and easily clamp the fence in any position you want.
Step 3 | Attaching to the bottom of the jig
To attach the plate to the bottom of the jig I used two triangular pieces of plywood as support and to ensure the squareness of this jig.
First, I glued these triangles to the sliding part of the bottom of the jig. I used CA glue for this. However, gluing is only temporary.
After gluing, the connection was reinforced with screws.
Once the triangle-shaped supports had been finally attached, the plate could be attached to them.
Check very carefully for squareness and DO NOT use glue. If the jig would not be square afterward, you can always loosen the plate and make adjustments.
Step 4 | installing the fence
Now you can start attaching the fence.
I recommend that you only start drilling the top hole now after you have clamped the fence in the right place at a perfect angle of 90-degrees.
Use the pilot hole in the plate to drill through the fence.
When you now put a bolt through the holes, the fence is back at the perfect 90-degree angle every time.
Step 5 | the runner
To make the jig move parallel to the saw blade, I provided a run that fits into the slot of my table saw.
Every table saw is different. So do not measure to confirm the runner, but use the following technique.
Open the jig to the maximum.
Now place the runner in the slot of the table saw.
When placing the runner in the slot, put something in the slot (washers for example) to allow the runner to stick out just above the surface of the table saw.
Now place a few drops of CA glue on the runner and spray the activator on the bottom of the jig.
Now place the jig with the plate against the blade and lower the jig until it makes contact with the runner.
Press firmly for a few seconds and then carefully remove the jig.
The runner is now firmly attached to the jig in the right place. To make the connection even stronger I put a few screws in the runner.
Make sure that the head of the screw is countersunk so that it does not touch the bottom of the slot.
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How to use this tenon jig
Place the workpiece on the jig by means of clamps.
Slide the jig open until the side of the workpiece touches the blade.
Now take the workpiece with the mortise and move the first calibration block until it touches the side of the mortise.
Clamp the calibration block firmly.
Now move the second calibration block to the point where it touches the other side of the mortise.
Now move the stop block to the second calibration block. Also, tighten this stopblock securely.
Now you can move the jig between the two points you calibrated. This allows you to make the two cuts for the tenon by just sliding the jig up and down.
Reloading is very quick by clamping a new workpiece to the plate.
This allows you to keep making the same cuts and multiples the mortise and tenon connections of your project.
All you have to do now is update the tenon by cutting away the unnecessary wood.
Again, you can work repetitively again by attaching a stop block to your crosscut sled.
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Woodworking | DIY | Home decoration
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